‘You ready?’ Jenny said.

‘What if it’s cold?’ Lawrence replied.

‘Are you serious?’

‘I dunno. The waves’ll dump me.’

‘You’ve caught gnarlier ones than those before.’

‘I dunno, babe…’

‘Don’t let it get in your head.’

‘I don’t wanna end up back in that wheelchair.’

‘You belong out there. I can see it in your eyes.’

Lawrence looked out at the water. The blue called to him. The break beckoned with each crashing wave.

‘You have to do it sometime,’ Jenny said. ‘I’m going out. Come if you want.’

Jenny ran toward the waves. They were at least three metres tall. Most of the people at the beach were near the shore. Parents chased babies up and down the sand. Children laughed and cried, trying to catch or escape the waves. Teenagers bobbed around in groups, gossiping and screaming at every wave that approached them.

A few brave souls were out in the break, amongst the roughest waves doing their best body surfing. Lawrence hung back on the sand and watched his girlfriend swimming straight toward them.

His heart quickened. I hope she’ll be okay.

In seconds, Jenny was already catching one of the monster waves. He winced. Oh, that’s a dumper. It rose high above the water, making a huge curl, and she caught it like a champion. She rode it all the way back to shore. No board, just her body. She gave Lawrence a thumbs up. He gave her a thumbs up in return.

She swam straight back out to the rough waves again for another go.

Lawrence took a deep breath, ‘All right, you can do this. You can do this.’

He stripped off his shirt and ran toward the water. He stopped at the edge. Come on, Lawrence. What the hell is wrong with you? He approached the water and dipped a toe in. He fought the shiver coming over him and rushed into the water, and let out a small yelp.

A group of young girls laughed nearby. Lawrence suspected they were laughing at him, but he dared not to look.

He saw Jenny’s red hair ahead and waded toward her. An enormous wave approached. He would have to duck dive and let the water finally cover all of him.

Lawrence took a deep breath and dived under. Even underneath the wave, its strength was enough to pull Lawrence back. He kicked and stroked to not get taken back too far.

He surfaced and looked out to Jenny. She saw him, smiled, and waved. Lawrence swam toward her.

‘It’s all right once you’re in,’ she said, quipping Michael McIntyre, one of their favourite comedians.

They both giggled. ‘Yeah, i-it’s all right,’ he stuttered. ‘S-Still getting used to the cold, though.’

‘Catch this one,’ she said, gesturing to another gigantic wave approaching. ‘It’ll warm you right up.’

‘Nah, nah. I’ll take it easy, just relax for a second.’

Jenny gave him a knowing look. She knew what he was going through. He wanted to catch it with all his might, but fear gripped him. What if it broke again?

‘You’ve got this, baby,’ she whispered. The wave was nearly upon them.

Lawrence stared the wave down and turned toward the beach. He inhaled deep and turned his head back to see the wave approaching. It rose higher and higher. This was it. Lawrence went for it. He paddled and kicked with all of his being to make it over the crest. Others next to him kicked and pushed to catch the monster as well.

Then Lawrence felt it — the surge. It pushing him forward. Lawrence looked down and saw the steep drop off the edge of the crest, at least two metres. His heart stopped for a moment. If he hesitated now, he was going to be dumped. He needed to commit with everything he had.

The wave crashed with Lawrence on top. He fell into the curl, put his right arm straight in front, and paddled hard with his left. He kicked and kicked with everything. It was all coming back to him in an instant. 

The surge from the wave propelled him forward, further than the others. Lawrence kept stroking and kept his head up to make sure he wouldn’t hit anyone. He felt the pressure on top of him, threatening to dump him, but he fought back. Lawrence held his breath. Paddle paddle paddle. Kick kick kick.

The wave took him all the way to shore. Lawrence’s hands felt the sand below and he picked himself up. He put his hands on his knees and caught his breath.

He waited to feel that familiar stab again in his back. It didn’t come.

Lawrence looked out to the waves and saw Jenny cheering in the water, giving him a thumbs up. 

He gave her a thumbs up and ran back out to the break to catch another. A huge smile was on his face.